MEET STEVE McCURRY IN SIENA

For a change in front of the lens: Steve McCurry in Siena

Meet the man who made a photo go around the world. Tomorrow, Saturday 15th of June, Siena's Santa Maria della Scala museum opens the doors for Steve McCurry's Viaggio Intorno al Mondo. 

Maybe National Geographic's best known photographer, Steve McCurry is in town for the opening of the show. His masterclass at Siena University was attended by 700 students from all over Italy.

You'll be able to meet McCurry at the museum for questions and book signing from 11 am to noon and from 4 pm to 5 pm. 

The exhibition in the stunning setting of the medieval SMS museum complex concentrates on Steve McCurry's portrait work. Also part of the exhibition are the photo of the green-eyed Afghan girl and a short film by National Geographic, which documents McCurry's quest to find his famous model nearly two decades later. Which indeed he did.  

Old friends: Steve Mc Curry's voyage to find the Afghan girl 

SIENA BY NIGHT... DOES IT EXIST?

A frenetic nightlife isn't the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of  Palio town. When it comes to going out, Siena has more in common with a sleeping beauty, than with other European university cities. Nevertheless, after some scouting around, you'll find there is more to Siena's nightlife than warm summer evenings spent on piazza del Campo. 

Moon rise on Piazza del Campo

WINE BARS, PUBS AND DISCOS

With contemporary design in a medieval space, wine bar and music club Un Tubo is the latest add-on to Siena's party scene. Owned by famous restaurant Le Logge, Un Tubo holds a weekly jam session on Tuesday nights and a couple of mostly jazzy concerts trough the rest of the month. The sophisticated setting is reflected in the club's upscale prices, but the ambiance and the wine cellar carved in tufo stone make up for it. Un Tubo has been beautifully restored by Montalcino architect Marco Pignattai, who also designed Richard Parson's new winery in Brunello town. 

LOOKING FOR A TOUR GUIDE IN SIENA? I'VE GOT HER!

I've written a self-guided Siena itinerary (Siena in a Day for Unanchor.com), so it's not like I think you can only explore Palio town in company of an expert guide. 

However when I first listened to Elena Sardelli's explanation about the mysterious history of the re-discovered crypt below Siena's cathedral, I've got reminded that humans still have a few advantages over audio, e- or paper guides.

Siena tour guide Elena Sardelli in Piazza del Campo

PALIO DI SIENA, JULY 2013

Out of Siena's 17 contrade/neighborhoods the following seven didn't participate in last year's July Palio and were therefore already designated to participate in the Palio della Madonna di Provenzano on the 2nd of July 2013: Valdimontone (ram), Pantera (panther), Oca (goose), Civetta (owl), Istrice (porcupine), Lupa (she-wolf) and Torre (tower). 

Yesterday Leocorno (unicorn), Onda (wave) and Nicchio (shell) were drawn as the extra three contrade that can join in to make up the total of ten neighborhoods, which can participate in each race.

According to my Tuscan native we're in for one hell of a Palio, as most of Siena's historic enemies will be present at the race. Oca and Onda vs Torre (the tiny contrada della Torre is the only one with two enemies), Civetta vs Leocorno, Nicchio vs Valdimontone, Istrice vs Lupa.

Giraffa (giraffe), Chiocciola (snail), Drago (dragon), Tartuca (turtle), Selva (forest), Bruco (caterpillar) and Aquila (eagle) can't participate in the Palio on the 2nd of July, however Aquila, Bruco, Chiocciola, Lupa, Nicchio, Oca and Torre are already designated to run this year's August Palio. This leaves us with four contrade  - Drago, Selva, Giraffa and Tartuca - who risk not running any Palio at all this year, unless they are lucky enough to be one of the three drawn to join the already mentioned contrade above in the race on the 16th of August. 

Sounds all far too complicated? Never mind. You'll enjoy the famous bareback horse race and the atmosphere in Siena even if you don't have the faintest idea of what is exactly going on. And as we still have to wait for another month, here's the video of the July Palio 2012, which was surprisingly streamline and clearly won by the Onda neighborhood. 

July Palio 2012: Watch how Onda's fantino (jockey) understandably 

 rather not get off his winning horse by the end of the  race...