SHOPPING IN SIENA: A FASHIONISTA AND FOOD LOVERS MAP

A nun with a bunch of flowers walking past a plastic ice cream cone in Siena


Even if you came to Siena for art not shopping - it will be hard to resist all the leather bags, Italian shoes and designer sunglasses on via Montanini, Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città - the main roads making up Siena's corso or high street. 

Pilgrims, merchants and the clergy travelling to Rome already did their shopping and money changing on these roads 800 years ago, so just follow in their footsteps for a break from the best museums in town. 


CLOTHES - ITALIAN FASHION A GOGO

Many of the brand names and stores won't be new to you. Most of them can be found in every bigger Italian town, and some of them all over the world. 

  • TEZENIS, INTIMISSIMI, CALZEDONIA, YAMAMAY are Italy's main underwear chains for reduced budgets. If you travel with a teenager don't miss out on Tezenis (I'm far beyond that age, but still enjoy shopping here). Calzedonia is perfect if you forgot to bring a swimsuit or a pair of warm socks in the winter. All along Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città 
  • After something a little more exclusive? MENOTTI RUGIARDI sells beach - and underwear by La Perla and other Italian producers of finest lingerie. Via Pellegrini (the road that leads from piazza del Campo to the Cathedral)
  • DIXIE is a young fashion label from Florence, which always has some glamorous and funky pieces that won't cost an eye. Piazza Matteotti 36
  • Like it casual? SCOUT is an Italian brand that does American apparel with a European touch for kids and adults alike. Scout also sells the great FREITAG bags. Okay, they're not Italian, but as a Swiss I can't but recommend them. Via Montanini, 32-36.
  • REPLAY: Denim the Italian way. The brand's store in Via Pantaneto, 6 is also a nice place for some window shopping. 
  • CORTECCI is best visited in company of a Russian millionaire. Gucci, Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and all the other famous Italian labels will make sure you're going to put that credit card to use. Cortecci has two stores in Siena: Banchi di Sopra 27 and right on piazza del Campo, 30/31.  
  • I'm no wearer of expensive outfits (what to do with them in our olive grove?), but Ondine Cohane suggests two fashionable boutiques in Siena (MAG BOUTIQUE and DOLCITRAME) in her NY Times' 36 hours in Siena travel guide. 
  • If you've been saving money for that once in a lifetime pair of handmade Italian shoes, visit Alessandro Stella's shop in via Camollia, 45. The artisan shoemaker makes dreams come true.  
  • Vintage lover? Aloe&Wolf right of piazza del Campo is your address for a 70s Gucci bag or a Oscar night Valentino dress. Kate Moss shoped here, so why shouldn't you? via Porrione, 23. 
A Tuscan vendor of locally grown produce at the Siena market


FOOD and WINE: GOURMET TREATS FROM THE HEART OF TUSCANY
  • Foodies have to stop and shop at the CONSORZIO AGRARIO. Siena's farmer's association reunites some of Tuscany's best producers. If you're desperate for vitamins after all the Tuscan cheese, the second entrance to the shop (and main exit) has just been turned into a fruit bar which sells fresh produce and smoothies. Consorzio Agrario di Siena - Via Pianigiani, 9
  • NANNINI: A coffee and a pastry at Nannini's won't take longer than five minutes if you do it the way the locals do it: standing up, cup of espresso or cappuccino in your right and a pasta (a brioche or similar) in your left. Stock up on Ricciarelli, Panforte and Panpepato - Siena's famous sweets. Via Banchi di Sopra, 24
  • You like it classy and a tiny bit old-fashioned? ANTICA DROGHERIA MANGANELLI (established in 1879) is Siena's first address for nicely packed foodie items to take back home. Beautiful store, but shopping assistants aren't always at their most friendly here. Via di Città, 71. In fact, if you can spare a few minutes, you're better off to explore the back roads and walk to ALIMENTARI DANIELE e DANIELA (in via T. Sarrocchi off the Sant'Agostin church). The typical Tuscan neighborhood grocery store is a feast for the eye. A nice fruit and vegetable vendor can be found on the same road. Fruttivendoli are still found all through Siena's neighborhood. Whenever you come passed one hop in to get an apricot and admire the fresh seasonal selections of artichokes and tomatoes & co.
  • BIOTTEGA is a small food shop right off piazza del Campo that sells fresh milk, truffles from San Giovanni d'Asso and other locally resourced delicacies (many of them organically produced). Via del Porrione, 18
  • All you wanted is a supermarket?! COOP is your best bet when it comes to Italian supermarket chains: a large selection of local produce paired with honest engagement in regard to social and ecological questions. Siena's COOP SUPERSTORE is located close to the train station. Check their website for current opening times. COOP SIENA, Strada del Paradiso, 1. Open from 8am - 9 pm (8.30pm on Saturday). 
  • An organic only supermarket? NATURA Sì is exactly what you're looking for. Via Mentana, 10.  
  • WEEKLY MARKET: Get it all in one go. Siena's big weekly market takes place every Wednesday morning from 8 am to 2 pm in the area around the Medici fortress (viale XXV Aprile). Here you can find anything from underpants and economic kitchenware to fresh fish and vegetables.  
Siena leather artisan in his worskhop
Paolo from Casa della Pelle at his leather workshop in via Camollia

TUSCAN TABLEWARE, ITALIAN DESIGN AND PALIO SOUVENIRS FROM SIENA 

  • CASA DELLA PELLE in Via Camollia, 153 is a treasure trove for leather items handmade in Siena. Paolo has been an artisan for a lifetime. He and his lovely wife Letizia run the workshop together, and over the years Paolo has been hired by many of Siena's neighborhoods to renew costumes and weaponry the contrade use in the pageantry which takes place twice yearly on piazza del Campo before the Palio horse race
  • Toscana Lovers is a short walk from piazza del Campo. The name of the shop may sound a little too obvious, but it's not about souvenirs. Or at least not about ones produced in China. The fine selection of Tuscan artisan tableware includes Busatti's linen tablecloths and Scarperia's famous knives. Owned by Montalcino wine queen Donatella Cinelli Colombini, the shop obviously also sells her selection of Tuscan reds. All of it also available via their internet shop. TOSCANA LOVERS, piazza Indipendenza.  
  • Fell in love with the Palio or one of Siena's contrade? Select a handmade plate or water jug in the colors of your favorite neighborhood at STUDIO ARTISTICO. The ceramics on sale are produced directly at the store.  Via San Pietro, 22 (opposite of the Pinacoteca museum)  
  • A wide selection of bowls, ladles and trays made from Tuscan olive wood can be found at Il CASALE, via dei Pellegrini 9 
  • TOYS: Left your kids at home or need something to keep them busy whilst on the road? Stock up on some Palio related souvenirs (drums, flags, etc in the contrade colors). PAESE DEI BALOCCHI via dei Rossi, 63 
  • KARTELL, a big name in Italy's contemporary furniture market, is well known for Philip Stark Louis Ghost chair and for countless colorful pieces by Italian and international designers. No house in Tuscany? No funky chairs then for you, but one of their lamps may fit your suitcase. KARTELL Flagship store; Via delle Terme 60.
  • Prefer things with a little more patina? Visit L'Angolo del Collezionista, a small antique and bric-à-brac market hold on every third Sunday of the month in piazza del Mercato (the square below piazza del Campo). 

SHOP OPENING TIMES IN SIENA

Siena's bigger and centrally located stores are normally open from 9 am to 8 pm (Monday to Saturday), and from 10 am to 8 pm on Sunday. However smaller shops may respect the traditional Italian siesta and close doors from 1 pm to anything between 3 and 5 pm and stay closed the whole day on Sunday and/or Monday morning. 



Visualizza SIENA SHOPPING MAP in una mappa di dimensioni maggiori


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